Loft conversion stairs

Short answer: the stairs are usually the trickiest part of designing a loft. In most houses, the best place is directly above your existing stairs, so the new flight follows on naturally and you don't lose a bedroom.

Where can the stairs go?

• Above the existing stairs: the most common and usually the best option. A hip to gable or a small pitched roof dormer can create the head height needed.
• From a landing or a bedroom: sometimes the only option, but it can take space from the room below.
• Open to the room: if the loft door is at the bottom of the stairs, the staircase can open straight into the room, as we did in Rosie's flat on Richmond Road. See the project →

What building regs ask for (main points, England)

• Steepness: no steeper than 42 degrees.
• Steps: each riser no more than 22cm, and each tread at least 22cm deep.
• Head height: normally 2 metres. For loft conversions it can drop to 1.9 metres in the middle of the stairs and 1.8 metres at the side.
• Handrail and balustrade: a handrail, and spindles spaced so a 10cm ball can't pass through.
• Fire safety: the stairs form part of the protected escape route. Fire doors guide →

What about spiral or space-saver stairs?

Spiral stairs can be used if they meet the British Standard for spiral stairs. Alternating-tread "space-saver" stairs are only allowed where there isn't room for a normal staircase, and only to reach one habitable room, plus a bathroom if it's only reached through that room. They're steeper and harder to carry things up, so we only use them when there's no other way. Building control has the final say.

Can I use a loft ladder?

Not if the loft is used as a bedroom, office or other habitable room. A loft ladder is only allowed for storage.

Made to match

In period homes, we can build the new stairs to match the existing ones, as on New Church Road in Hove, where the new staircase looks as if it has always been there. See the project →